Pets No Pests

We love our pets. They are friends and family. Unfortunately, they aren't our only animal housemates. Sometimes rodents and insects visit and try to move in permanently. Not only are these pests unwelcome, they litter the home with nests, wastes, and dead bodies ~ and can leave behind a path of destruction ranging from moth-eaten woolens to structural damage. Luckily, there are ways to minimize the effort it takes to clean up after all your critters. And that means more time for fetch!

Primary care of your pet begins with feeding and watering. Whatever type of pet you have, it's important to clean the food and water bowls daily to prevent the buildup of dirt and bacteria.
Place pet bowls on a washable mat or tray to protect your flooring against spills and drips. Wash with hot, soapy water at least once a week or as needed. Disinfect the mat or tray periodically. *(Top Hat And Tails uses: biokleen ~ a grapefruit seed & orange peel extract product. We purchase this from Whole Foods).

Do not dispose of or leave pet waste in a ditch, storm drain, street, sidewalk or trail. It contributes to the pollution of nearby streams and lakes. *( Chatham Boro storm drains go directly to The Great Swamp. Chatham Twp storm drains go directly to The Passaic River).
Do not add carnivorous pet waste to the compost pile. The pile will not get hot enough to kill parasites and other disease-causing organisms. It may also attract all sort of vermin.

If you choose to flush cat feces, make sure only the feces goes down the toilet. Clay based litter can clog up the toilet and your septic tank.

Try using an all-natural enzyme-based cleaning product as an alternative method to removing pet "accidents" from carpets. The enzymes actually digest the stain-and odor causing proteins in the pet urine. To discourage a pet from resoiling a previously soiled area, lay a sheet of foil on the spot for a week or two. It will be unappealing for your pet to step on.

Pet-grooming wipes or baby wipes are great for cleaning dirt off paws and wiping away the dander and excess hail that can cause human pet allergies. Top Hat And Tails uses Musher's Secret paw protection on our own canines during the cold winter months and hot summer months.

If your pets have fleas, throw out or empty the vacuum bag outdoors after each vacuuming. Throw out or empty your vacuum bag when it is half-full, to prevent the vacuum from getting clogged with pet hair.

It is important that your Rabbit, Hamster or other furry friend have a clean, dry cage. Look for a cage with a solid-surface floor and a large door or a lid that lifts off. Deluxe hard plastic structures with prefabricated tunnels and chambers may look appealing, but can be very difficult to clean. Wash and refill water bowl or bottle daily. Clean up droppings with a wet paper towel; the dampness will keep dry droppings from turning into easily inhaled dust. Remove vegetable your pet has not eaten. Every other day, clean where your pet urinate. Remove dirty litter and replace. Clean the whole rodent cage and everything in it weekly to prevent the growth of mold in the soiled shavings, which can make your pet sick. Completely empty the cage, and wash and rinse the bottom of the cage with biokleen. Dry thoroughly before refilling the cage with fresh bedding. For easy cleanup, clip vegetable you feed to you pet to the wire frame of the cage. We use this method for our Cockatiel and Green Cheek Conure. You may wish to consider using plastic gloves to clean cages.

Birds are not the neatest of pets, so it is important to establish an everyday cleaning routine:
Use hot water and (again I recommend biokleen) to wipe feces off the cage, perches and toys. Change the paper lining on the bottom of the cage. Wash the food and water bowls and rinse thoroughly. Occasionaly put food and water bowls in the dish washer. Make certain the food bowl is dry before adding seed or pellets to prevent mold. Keep a handheld vacuum or a broom handy to clean up debris that has fallen from the cage. Minimize "fallout" with a cage apron or an office chair mat under the cage. NEVER use the self-cleaning feature of your oven around a bird; it can be deadly!

You do not need to remove fish to accomplish the weekly or monthly aquarium clening. Take these simple steps:

1. Scrape algae off the inside of the glass walls with an algae scrubber. Also scrub rocks or decoration with algae.
2. Trim excess growth and dead leaves on live plants.
3. Siphon off 15 to 20 percent of the water and replace it with clean tap water that has been allowed to sit in an aquarium-use-only bucket for at least 24 hours. You may want to consider using a gravel cleaner that vacuums up decaying organic matter.

Understanding pest behaviour and changing yours is the key to control. When tackling pest problems, always start with the least toxic method. Herbal solutions, such as peppermint or spearmint oils, can be used to repel insects. No toxic alternatives to pesticides also include a variety of traps and baits as well as ultrasonic technology, which uses high-frequency sound to drive rodents and insects from your home without harming human occupants.

Most insects and rodents prefer to live outdoors, but will often seek food, water and shelter in your home, especially in the colder months. Prevention is the best policy against household pests.

*Remove food and water sources and clean regularly.
*Make you home uncomfortable for pests.
*Employ-tight fitting windows and screens.
*Repair leaking roofs, chimneys and pipes. Insects love moisture.
*Keep the perimeter of your home free of leaves, wood, mulch, compost and heavy vegetation.
*Keep clutter to a minimum in garages, sheds, basements and other storage areas.

Tracks and droppings are sure signs of a rodent infestation. You might also see gnawed cables or electric wires or damaged walls, floors and doors. The sight of one mouse or rat is cause for action, because rodents reproduce rapidly; two mice can produce 2,500 heirs in just 6 months!!

A mouse can pass through holes as small as a nickel; rats can squeeze into holes as small as a half-dollar. Try to determine how these rodents are getting into your home by sprinkling talcum powder on the floor in the suspect ares. Footprints or tail marks will indicate activity.

Source: The One-Minute Cleaner Plain & Simple by Donna Smallin






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In Memory Of Buddy

We are sadden by the loss of Buddy last month. A faithful companion to both his human and canine family for 15 years. It is in his honor that we give a brief description of this breed.

The Old English Sheepdog is a member of the Herding Breed. In existence in Britain for centuries, it is believed to have been developed through the crossing of the Briard with the Russian Owtcharks, which in turn is related to the Hungarian Sheepdogs. It was used as a drovers dog and for defending flocks of sheep. In the early 18th century in Britain, drovers dogs were exempt from taxes and their tails were docked as a means of indentification, hence the nickname Bobtail. The Old English Sheepdog is a kindly dog that gets along well with people, children and other animals. It is fairly large, heavy and exuberant, and must be given sufficient space and be adequately exercised.
Source: the dog breed handbook by Joan Palmer 2005